I can’t hope to adequately capture the experience of surfing in words, because just as it is impossible to describe a religious experience in regular language, the two are often the same for many surfers, a religious experience and surfing. Imagine, if you will, a typical attendance at Mother Oceans Church of Surfing It’s early, very early in the morning. For some reason, like fisherman, surfers feel that being up before the sun increases one’s chances of success. It is as if they are proving their dedication to the wave gods by arising abnormally early, and in turn shall be rewarded with waves to surf. Before paddling out, there is a ritualistic stretch many times done in the rhythmic pattern of the rising sun, an awakening connection of the body to the soul. Next the sacred surfboard, a design passed down through the generations, is waxed and prepared for its ocean journey. Perhaps it even has a name and is gently spoken to in order to promote safe and thrilling rides. Upon first entry to the shoreline a handful of water is caressed and allowed to gently role down the contours of the face, a daily type of baptism to show an undaunting appreciation. Out in the lineup, waiting for the waves, one has to be content with the waiting, because patience is undoubtedly the first lesson taught by Mother Ocean. During this time many surfers close their eyes and take a deep breath of the rich ocean air, brief meditations in attempt to further focus oneself into the soothing rhythms of the sea (Interview: Anshel, 2001). It’s absolutely meditative, thus you might expect all surfers to be happy, spiritual people. This, as we know, is not the case. Where some people, known as soul surfers, find beauty, peace, and contentment in surfing, others find reasons to be jealous, reasons to hate. Even on the great days, there is waiting and watching, and the waves will not be hurried and nor get bigger in response to the frustration and wanting of the surfers in the water. The waves come when they want to come, and they build and break as they please. One could make themselves miserable, wanting the waves to be bigger, faster, and more frequent. Yet even then, they will never be just as everyone wants them. Surfing teaches that the world works on it’s own time, not ours.
It’s easy, sometimes, to think of ourselves as invulnerable against nature. Our technology makes us feel superior to the world of wind, waves, rain, and snow. This is an illusion always shown to those who dare enter the sacred ocean realm. There is a power in nature, and in the waves, that should inspire awe, fear, and respect. A wave of sufficient size to ride is also of sufficient size to pin one under the water, in the sand, unsure of which way is up, until ones breath goes. In the Tao Te Ching, Lao Tsu writes: The forgiving water is more powerful than the stone, for in time in it’s meandering, the water goes on, while the stone is made smooth. The Tao teaches the same manner of responding to the world that the sea does: accept what is given, do not hurry the world, and in acceptance comes strength.
Respect for nature, ourselves, and those around us is the second lesson learned in the surfing church. Not only do surfers have immense respect for nature but for the animals, which live within it as well. Sharks, with the ability to take away life as they please, are viewed with such respect that many call them a deity to the surfing culture. You eat shark, shark eat you, it s their territory out there, and surfers know, so they show them respect, (Interview: Watson, 2001) Dolphins as well are perhaps another deity, viewed as the ultimate waveriders they can often be found riding waves right along side surfers. We sometimes start to think that we somehow own this world, in which we ride always on top of the waves, dominating them. The Bible sets human beings against nature, makes human beings superior to, and in control of, nature, (Kinsley, 1995). This again is an ignorant illusive view. The sea teaches surfers gratitude for what they have, what they receive, and the delicate world around them.
Another element in the view of surfing as a religion is the pilgrimages. To some perhaps they are little more than an adventure, yet for most not only do they signify a spread of the culture, but a quest for perfection. The search as it is called in the surfing community, is the constant desire to find enlightenment through the waves. Consequently, most surfers, although not practicing, feel they are capable of ridding themselves of every material of man, almost. Wandering the Earth naked with a surfboard would be enough to make me happy, (Interview: King, 2001). Each surfer may hunt but never find the ultimate ride, while others may perhaps experience it everyday. It all depends on where the individuals look inside themselves to find exactly what it takes to make them happy.
The quest for perfection and self-awareness in the surfing culture is quite similar to some of the themes found in Buddhism. Buddhists feel that the struggle to attain self-mastery is far more worthwhile, and far more difficult, than the struggle to gain mastery over others as practiced by other religions such as Christianity (Kinsley, 1995). Surfing is an individual’s sport, thus improvement comes exclusively from inside the individual. Self-analysis through meditation, causing no harm to others, and ridding oneself of satisfaction cravings are the basic teachings of Buddhism in order to achieve enlightenment (Ibid). Now perhaps surfers may never achieve the Buddhist form of enlightenment, but it is good to know that they may at least follow in their path.
VIII. Conclusion
Overall, surfing has come a long way since the days when only only the royalty of Native Western Polynesians practiced it. Later, as a result of incredible efforts by Hawaiians to retain the unique aspect of their culture, surfing was kept alive in a time of rejection and spread to the rest of the world. As its popularity grew, so did the advancements in surfboard design, allowing for incredible maneuvers in waves once viewed as unsurfable by even the bravest of souls. In turn the sport produced a culture with its own unique vocabulary, unwritten laws, and fashion. Surf associations emerged to spread the love of surfing and to create environmental awareness throughout the community. Many feel so consumed by surfing that they consider it their religion. With its own unique practices, pilgrimages, and deities, surfing focuses on self-awareness and respect for nature. As a result surfing can now be compared with global religions such as Christianity and Buddhism. In conclusion, I hope those who read this ethnography shall give surfing a try themselves, perhaps benefit from what it has to offer, and ultimately become more aware of the precious world in which live. After all, God must have been a surfer.